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19 January 2007

When in Nairobi. . .

. . . avoid taxis at all costs. And I mean that literally cause those fools be trying to take all of our money!! Every day it's a different cost to get to the same places to which I'm going every day. My new game is to just keep going lower on my up-front negotiations. For example:

Day 1: From airport to our guesthouse, we ended up paying nearly 3000 shilling (approx. USD 40).
Day 2 AM: From guesthouse to downtown (approx one-third the above distance), we paid 1500 shilling.
Day 2 PM: From downtown to guesthouse we could have paid 900 shilling (had I not opened by big a**hole mouth before getting the quote).
Day 3 AM: From guesthouse to downtown, we paid 1200 shilling.

As you can see, it's a crapshoot and even when you negotiate up front, you could end up forking over extra if the driver so decides. But have no fear friends, I've gotten chummy with Ben, a local taxi driver, with whom I'm gonna work out a deal with tonight. If things go my way, he'll be our official driver for the remainder of our stay in Nairobi at a discounted rate. It will work. You'll see.

Nairobi is a really crazy city. In as much as I've seen--I'm staying in an Italian's home across the street from the President's private residence and travel daily by taxi to downtown 15 km away--it's a city of many people, the smell of gas that is consistent with any Central American town I've ever visited, and an odor of burning that I haven't quite figured out yet. Economic disparity is great, although there seems to be a middle class (by manner of dress, houses, transport), but I don't know the economic breakdown of the city. The roads are winding and the traffic rules loose. Pedestrians and cars fight for street space and I'm amazed that no one has been hit by the taxis that I've been in. The city is loud with sounds of screechy brakes, diesel motors, feet padding along pavement and continuous chatter.

It's definitely a city that is alive and I can't wait until I can really get out and experience it. I've got lots of photos, but no way to get them up here. When I get my intenet situation worked out (hopefully after tomorrow), I'll share the love.

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